Crystal Cove Conservancy Goes to Baja: Pacific Gray Whale Expedition

The Experience.

Departing via San Diego’s Cross Border Express, supporters traveled from Tijuana in two chartered planes and landed after a quick two-hour flight on a dirt airstrip next to the lagoon where they donned waterproof gear and boarded small boats to Baja Discovery’s Punta Piedra camp, the lagoon’s only camp in the designated whale watching area.

Each day, the group loaded into three small pangas captained by locals who make their living fishing the lagoon outside of whale season. Over the course of six whale watches in three days, supporters got to see gray whales arriving after a long migration from northern feeding grounds to breed or give birth. Laguna San Ignacio is well- known for its ‘friendly’ whales – researchers’ estimates say about 10% of the whales are curious and often initiate human contact. In between whale watches, supporters explored pristine beaches and sand dunes, explored the area on tide walks, and kayaked through mangroves (where the rare mangrove warbler and vermilion flycatcher were both spotted).

Connecting the Work.

Throughout the trip, supporters learned about the threats facing places like Laguna San Ignacio, and how we can be part of protecting the natural places we love. With Baja Discovery staff we explored the geography and ecology of the Biosphere Reserve and lagoon; the biology, behaviors, and habits of gray whales; and the community’s ecotourism model and its economic impact.

Anne Earhart and Sara Lowell from Marisla Foundation, both long-time Conservancy supporters, led a lunchtime talk on the fight – spearheaded by Marisla, NRDC, and International Community Foundation – that stopped a plan to develop the largest saltworks on the planet at Laguna San Ignacio. They cited it as one of the biggest conservation success stories in history, and pointed to the work after the saltworks was stopped – the work with the Ehido, which represents the local community – to develop a sustainable, community-driven plan to manage tourism and to center the local community and promote conservation as the most critical part of the story.

Dr. Steven Swartz, of Gray Whale Research in Mexico, has spent his life researching gray whales in Laguna San Ignacio. Since 1977, Dr. Swartz and his spouse and research partner, Mary Lou Jones, have led a diverse team of researchers from universities in Mexico, the US, Canada, and the UK at a small research lab at the lagoon to understand gray whales behaviors and the threats they face. Because Dr. Swartz joined for a whale watching excursion, a lunchtime talk, dinner, and overnight in camp, supporters gained a deep understanding of his work and what was most important to him in that work – his students. When Dr. Swartz talks about his coming retirement and handing over his life’s work – work he pioneered – he is clearly moved by the capabilities and dedication of the people, once his students, who he is handing it over to.

And it informs a clearer understanding of our mission – to make sure that there are people who come after us with the capability and dedication to carry on the work.

Whether by welcoming guests to the cottages – many of whom have never woken up to the sound of the Pacific Ocean or stayed overnight in a California State Park or taking students out on the water to see dolphins and sea lions and evaluate water quality or hosting experts in Cove Talks, The Conservancy is fulfilling its mission.